What is dry process in denim?
Process sequence of denim dry process:
Ø Raw Garments > Whiskering > Hand Sand/Hand Scraping > Tagging > Washing (Wet/Chemical Process) > Hydro Extracting > Drying > Damages/Destroy > PP Spray > Grinding > Washing (Wet/Chemical Process) > Hydro Extracting > Drying > Finishing.
Denim Dry Processing – Basic know how:
Ø Hand Sand / Hand Scraping > Sand blasting > Whiskers > Chevrons > Knee Star / knee whiskers > Hot Spot > Tacking > Grinding > Damages / Destruction > PP Spray > PP Brush / towel > Patch / repair > Bleach spots > Resin application > Pigments & Local tint application etc.
1. Denim Hand Sand / Scraping:
Hand sand is step which
is generally being done in rigid
form of garments to get distress look. Locations can be front thigh
& back seat or it’s can be overall / global application as per
Standard. Emery paper
is
being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery
paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above,
higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the
paper. In garment industry from
220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used. Purpose
of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. Scraping can
be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical
it’s up to operators convenience) even it can done plain wooden board of
garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better
results. Hand sanding must be started
from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually.
One garment must done by one operator only to have balance intensity on both
the legs.HAND SAND/SCRAPING
2. Sand Blasting:
SAND BLASTING |
3. Whiskers/ Moustaches , Chevron , Knee Star, Hot Spot:
On Denim, whiskers / Mustaches, Chevrons are nothing but
the worn out lines / impression
generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many
designs & pattern available This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on fine wood
stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution
placements & pattern must be marked on garments, this will help operator to
execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment Hot spots are
heavy/intense area on thigh or knee which is made purposely to create used look
& on knee area if any whiskers line are there, called knee star All above operations
are carried out in width direction hence
its appears intense than hand sand with less strokes, because hand sand is
carried out in length direction.
WHISKERING BY PATTERN |
- By whiskering pattern
- By Manual hand scrap.
- By using laser Machine.
4. Tacking & Grinding:
TACKING |
Grinding: is being done
on pocket edges & bottom hems edges
by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many
different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market
which runs with pneumatic system.
5. Damages/Destruction:
DAMAGES |
One of the most popular
distressing effects currently, ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look
unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to
apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft
yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting
weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will
look unique & different than others.
6. POTASSIUM PERMANGNATE SPRAY/RUB & BLEACH SPRAY:
PP Spray is being
done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo
color shade. This can be applied by spray gun or by towel dipped in to
PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet
process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the
middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural
& white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added
in order to achieve desired intensity and look.
PP SPRAY |
There are many
parameters needs to be taken into control for doing PP or Bleach spray. Spray gun pressure, width of spray, flow
& way of spraying.
7. Patch & Repairs along with Bleach Spots:
These are totally manual processes to give uniqueness to Denim and to make it look VINTAGE. First cut or damage the units intestinally to desired area & then make hand repairs or machine repair to look natural. Diluted bleach can be used to spot the desired area followed by neutralization in wet process.
PATCH REPAIRS |
When we talk about Vintage denim, every garment should look unique & not a photocopy. These garments are sold at very high prices so customer should have a feeling of uniqueness & feeling different from others. Vintage denim are signature/ autograph of a brand & its image.
8. Resin Application(3D Effect/3D Crinkle):
Resin (Formaldehyde
free) being used for achieving 3D
effect (3 Dimensional), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by
spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right
combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.
After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual
designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional
effect. After making it, it should be manually dried with hot press or hair
dryer & then must be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned
in resin product manual If resin
not cured properly, 3 D effect will not be permanent & can cause skin
irritation/rashes to the wearer. Highly skilled operators needs to
execute this process in order to get consistency & uniformity Whole garment can have crushed look by resin dip
& crushed manually followed by oven curing. Silicone plays an important
role in getting softer hand after oven Special streaky effect & Crackles also being done by
applying resin on desired area followed by scraping & pp spray then
neutralization.
3D CRINKLE |
9. Pigments & Local Tint ( Staining) Application:
Need to choose right color of pigment or tint with binder or fixer to apply locally on denim to get vintage look. This process also needs an artist to execute it nicely to merge the tint with ground indigo color & should not look too artificial. Pigments & Local tint also can be applied through spray gun or rubbing on desired area of denim garment. After application its must be cured in order to have permanent effect on jean As we can see from all the dry denim processes mentioned above, they are mainly manual processes. The quality of the worker can make or break the garment. Hence, great care has to be given to select the right personnel for these jobs.
10. Overall
Crinkle:
OVERALL CRINKLE
The
full garments is washed with resin and after hydro-extracting the full garments
is dryed then special effect is produced. For the effect , the garment is tied
with thread or net or rope which resin treatment. Overall crinkle is done the
all types of fabrics like denim , twill , canvas , poplin , knit ,
viscose , nylon etc. This is done after all types of dry and wet process. This
is very popular and widely used in denims now a days.
11. CREASE MARK:
IT’S A MECHANICAL PROCESS, IT PROCEED BY TAGGING MACHINE ON BY BIND THE ROPE.
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