- FABRIC CONSUMPTION OF BASIC PANT:
1. Marker making system / Auto Marker system
2. Mathematical system
Ø In this
system , we have to study the size range
Ø It may
be six pcs of six sizes of 12 pcs of six pies (2pcs/size ) can be sorted out
from size range XS, S ,M, L, XL,
XXL or
6,8,10 ,12,14,16,18 etc
Ø After that pattern parts can be made by
grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet
Ø Having made the pattern parts it should have to lay each parts of the
paper pattern on a marker paper similar the fabric width
Ø After
marking the paper pattern. we measure marker paper to length wise we will final
a aggregate consumption of six pes or 12 pcs of garments and we can easily
calculate one pcs or one dozen garments
As for
Example of Auto marker system.
Style No – WS383102
Length of Marker 22 Yds 20”18
Width of Marker 1yd20”16
Efficiency of Marker 92.03
Marker ratio:
6-2,8-2,10-2,12-4,14-4,16-2,18-2=18 pcs
When all Measurement
in inch
Marker
length* Marker Width*12
Consumption = x
Efficiency =
…Yds/doz
Sum of Marker Ratio*1550
812*49.5*12*92.03
=
18*1550*100
=15.95yd/dz
Mathematical is a system of rough estimate of consumption of a sample garment as per measurement sheet.
Fabric consumption for a basic pant-
Say for pant
H = 40’’
J = 13’’
If fabric width is 60’’ then calculate the fabric consumption of a
trouser
Fabric consumption of a trouser = P
P = (H + 4’’) x (J + 2’’) x 4 square inch
Where J = width through korch line
H = Height of pant
P = fabric consumption
P = (H
+ 4’’) x (J + 2’’) x 4 square inch
= (40
+ 4) x (13 + 2) x 4
=
2640
Fabric length= 2640/60 = 44’’ = 1.2 yrds
MORE EXAMPLE SEE THE BELOW-
1. CONSUMPTION OF PANT:
In seem X Front rise + Allowance / Width /36
OR
1. Waist Belt = 32” > Hip = 44” > Thigh = 27” > Knee = 18” > Leg opening = 16” > Length = 44”
A= 32 + 44 +
27 + 18 + 16 = 68.5
2 2
= 68.5 X 44 = 3014
=
(6.25 + 1) X (6 + 1) X 2
= 101.5
Coin Pocket = Length X Width
= (5 +
1) X (3 + 1)
Loop = Length X Width
= (2.5 + 1) X (0.5 + 1) X 7
P = 3014 + 101.5 +24 +36.75
= 3176.25 / 57”/36
= 1.55 + 3% Wastage
= 1.60 + 5% Shrinkage
= 1.68 X 12 X $2.5 Fabric Price
Pocket = (10 + 1) (90 + 1) X
4
= 440 / 44 /36 + Wastage.
2. CONSUMPTION OF WOVEN SHIRT:
Let’s have the below before
washed measurement of a shirt is given as below –
Body Length = A inches
½ Chest
= B inches
Sleeve Length = C inches
Arm Hole
= D inches
C = {(A + 2) (B + 2) X 2}
+ {(C + 2) (D + 2) X 2}
Fabric width X 36
= Yds X Wastage
* If garments is normal
washed more 1% wastage is enough.
* If garments are enzyme /
bleach / stone washed & more 3% as wastage.
This will not be applicable
for yarn dyed fabric which has the check matching.
OR
A = Body Length + Allowance + 2% / 2.54
B = Chest + Allowance + 1% /2.54
= (A X B) / F.W / 36
3RD OPTION
A = Body Length -74cm +
Allowance 2cm = 76/2.54 = 29.92”
B = ½ Chest - 51cm X 2 full =
102cm + Allowance 8 = 110/2.54 = 43.30”
= (A X B) / F.W / 36
= (29.92 X 43.30) / 57/ 36 =
0.63
C = Sleeve Length – 64 cm +
Inside cuff- 7cm + Allowance + 4 = 75/2.54 = 29.53”
D = Bicep – 20 cm X 4 = 80 cm
+ Allowance 4 = 84/2.54 = 33.07
= (C X D) / F.W / 36
= (29.53 X 33.07) / 57/ 36 =
0.48
Consumption = (0.63 + 0.48) =
1.11 add 15% for others parts + Shrinkage + Wastage or need to calculate Length
X Width as below:
- Placket
- Collar
- Gumball
- Pocket
- If any small part
3. CONSUMPTION OF LONG & SHORT PANT:
A = Inseam (Hem allowance
2.5cm) + Front rise + Allowance (If Including waist belt mentioned in tech pack
allowance will be 6cm & If Excluding allowance will be 11cm with Front
rise) + % /2.54
B = Thigh X 4 + Allowance + %
/2.54
= (A X B) / F.W / 36
Back Pocket = Length X Width
X Quantity
Coin Pocket = Length X Width X Quantity
Loop Pocket = Length X Width X
Quantity
Pocket Seam = Length X Width X
Quantity
Note: Shrinkage For Cotton
Fabric Length-4% Width-3% For Stretch Fabric Length-2-3% Width-10-12% (For
actual consumption need to add as shrinkage report or as fabric details by
supplier)
Note: For Actual Consumption & Costing- Need to Check with fabric supplier as below:
- Fabric Shrinkage warp & Weft
- Fabric width
- Fabric price
4. CONSUMPTION OF RIB:
1. Rib Consumption = YDS X
GSM
1,000
OR
2. Rib Consumption = CM
(L+W) X GSM
1,00,00000
0 Comments
If you have any doubts, Please let me know.